November knocked on the door this morning and winter lurks only a calendar page away. These days, as many colored leaves litter the ground as glorify the trees. Before nature's colors retreat into drabness, come along with me for one more walk through Tacoma's Point Defiance Park. For this one, you won't even need a sweater.
Excited humans crowd the railings of a Washington State ferry to point
and shout to each other about what they see in the water. Dark, smooth, wet,
and glistening, the rounded shapes of orcas, sometimes called killer whales, curve up from the water’s surface, their blade-like
dorsal fins erect as they forge ahead.
photo by Howard Garrett
These elegant creatures, if they chose to do so, could leap in graceful arcs and twist their white undersides toward the sun, let out
their haunting high-pitched cries, or dive below. But at the moment, they
travel, showing just enough of themselves to mark their passage through the
Salish Sea, the combined waters of Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and
the Strait of Georgia. In this delicate ecosystem— increasingly endangered by
the effects of human activity—they forage for salmon and communicate with each
other in distinct dialects we cannot understand.
If your curiosity about orcas goes beyond snapping a digital photo, you
might want to connect with like-minded people at an exciting workshop happening
this coming weekend. “Ways of Whales,” will be presented on Saturday, Jan. 26,
2013 by Orca Network, a 502 (c) (3) non-profit that, according to their mission
statement, is”… dedicated to raising awareness about the whales of the Pacific
Northwest, and the importance of providing them healthy and safe habitat.”
Fortunately, a growing number of people do care. This popular workshop, now in
its tenth year, is the perfect place to begin or expand your knowledge of our
region’s whales.
Photo by Howard Garrett
Howard Garrett and Susan Berta co-founded Orca Network and devote themselves to this cause. Garrett, the board chairman, is also the photographer who provided the beautiful images in this post. When I contacted them to learn more, he and Berta eagerly shared photos and information for the benefit of readers of Good Life Northwest and hope many of you will attend.
“The ‘Ways of WhalesWorkshop’ is intended to offer a chance for people interested in whales, from any vantage point, to hear directly from whale researchers and experts about their findings and experiences,” Garrett said. “It’s a chance to ask questions and hear personal insights from a variety of areas of expertise, and it’s a chance to meet lots of other people who share our interest and passion to learn more about whales, especially the orcas that live among us.”
• Dr. Peter Ross - Toxins and other threats to Southern Resident orcas • Film maker John Gussman - Elwha River dam removal& restoratio • Steve Mashuda, Earthjustice Attorney - Petition to de-list So. Residents • Presentation on Emma Foster‘s Paper - Menopause in Killer Whales • Researcher Mark Malleson - Transient Orcas and Humpback Whales • Environmental education displays
Garrett added, “Much of what we do as Orca Network depends on active reporting by people all over the Salish Sea, and this gathering is a way to connect and give back to them.
Chess
Johnson had assured me on the phone, “You can’t miss us. We’ll be wearing
bright orange shirts and carrying American flags.” And he was right.Along with a reporter and photographer from
KOMO TV, I watched for three men fitting that description as I waited at the
Point Defiance ferry dock for the 12:10 boat. They soon appeared among the foot
passengers from Vashon Island, who disembarked before the cars.
Sunshine
illuminated their orange shirts, along with the red, white, and blue of three
large American flags that fluttered in the chilly breeze. How lucky to get this break in the weather, I thought. Chess
Johnson, Andy Britt, and Will Carroll are all Iraq war veterans who had spent
the previous day, Veterans Day, walking 25 miles in the cold, hard November rain
to take an important message to the streets. I learned about this walk from Sue
Nebeker, the subject of my Veterans Day blog post about American Hero Quilts, and
had given Johnson a call. At the dock, I spoke with him, and Carroll, while
KOMO's Lindsay Cohen interviewed Britt as part of her story about the event.
“We’re
marching from Bremerton Naval Base to Fort Lewis, trying to connect three
branches that have posts here in the state of Washington,” Johnson told me,
“bringing awareness of Posttraumatic Stress Diagnosis, Traumatic Brain Injury,
soldier suicide, and over-medication of soldiers.” He said one of their main
goals was to have civilians “integrating more” and doing more research on PTSD,
noting that it affects everyone who knows the soldiers, not just themselves.
Post TraumaticStress Disorder (PTSD)—the same condition Johnson referred to as Post Traumatic
Stress Diagnosis—and Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI) are invisible wounds, but
they are wounds just the same. Johnson has suffered it all. As he walked up
from the ferry, I knew who he was at once because of the deep voice I’d heard
on the phone and his missing right eye.
He lost it while serving as a staff sergeant with Fort Lewis’ first Stryker
Brigade (3rd Brigade, 2nd Infantry Division) when a sniper sent two bullets
into his brain—one through his eye socket and another just above. The incident
left Johnson with skull fractures, neuropathic pain, grand mal seizures,
degenerative arthritis of the spine, and only partial sight in his one
remaining eye. He also has PTSD, like Britt, and TBI.
Everything changed
forever that day for this soldier. Losing his career, his uniform, and the personal life he’d
known, to have all that replaced by both physical and emotional pain, plus financial problems (see KOMO news story from 2007) led to temporary
alcohol abuse as a form of self-medication. Johnson wanted to stay in the Army.
He wanted to keep wearing that uniform, to go back to Iraq, to fight alongside the
soldiers he thought of as family. Fortunately though, life went on. Now, this soldier who has won so many commendations and decorations has
a wife who encourages him and a new focus on competing in athletics, such as
the 2012 Army Warrior Games. You can read his bio here. He has also been the focus of a documentary film about Post Traumatic Stress Disorder, called Exit Wound. One thing
never changed, and that was his love of country and comrades. Johnson says it best: “Really, all we’re doing
is paying it forward. We feel honored that we were able to wear the uniform
with the American flag on it and to fight for this country. We feel that a lot
of people have forgotten about the sacrifices that have been made. To the
veterans who have put that uniform on before us, we want to say ‘thank you.’ It
means so much to us to be able to represent this country.
“And when we
put these orange shirts on, the rucksacks, and the flags, we’re representing a
bigger community, a veteran community, a disabled community, a community of
Americans who are just so proud. So we walk because we can, and we’re able to.
So many people just take that for granted. The first year that we were in Iraq,
you wouldn’t have ever seen an Iraqi walking around, just doing what he chose.
It’s a way to say we’re proud Americans. And we’re going to support our
brothers who are currently overseas and the ones who will be coming home
tomorrow.” Carroll
agreed. “It’s literally another family. It doesn’t matter what generation, if
they were in any war they know exactly what I’m talking about.” Johnson and
Britt planned the walk and then invited Carroll. He has issues resulting from his
service overseas, and is still addressing them. Encouraging soldiers and
their families to seek help is part of the walk’s purpose. Carroll said
the hardest problem he’s had is adjusting to civilian life again, after what he
calls the military way of thinking. “We’re
pretty brash and straightforward. On the civilian side, I really have to be way
more aware of what I say and what I do. The civilian world is completely
different.” In addition
to talking about emotional and psychological issues, I asked Johnson about
something else returning vets may face: unemployment. He said: “You
take a medic who has served in the army, for say…ten years, who has gone on
three or four or five deployments, who has put their friends back together, has
had to patch and heal wounded Iraqi nationals or Afghanistan nationals… and they’ve
done this for one year straight in a combat zone. They come back to America and
they try to get a job as a medic. And they have to go through all the school as
if they were just graduating high school. I don’t understand why the civilian
circuit won’t give us credit for the knowledge we learn in the military.
On-the-job training is the most valuable they could ever have and in a combat
zone. But they are not allowed to come home and life a senior citizen who just
fell and hurt their hip. To me it doesn’t make any sense. Carroll
brought up truck drivers and mechanics, and Johnson gave the example of an army
truck driver who drives convoys in Iraq, “. . . getting blown up for twelve
months straight. He comes home and he can’t drive a simple big rig down the
road.” And he talked about military mechanics and certification. “They work on
giant tanks, but they can’t work on a half-ton pickup.”
Lindsay Cohen from KOMO speaks with (L to R) Chess Johnson, Will Carroll, and Andy Britt
I wish I
could have had the chance to speak more than a few words to Britt. But the
sun went behind one of the clouds that had moved in, and the breeze felt
colder. It looked like the rain could return. They still had many miles to
reach the end of their journey, the brigade's memorial at Fort Lewis.
This
Veterans Day weekend I avoided the malls and the sales and ended up with
something worth much more than any retail bargain.I’m glad I met these veterans and heard what
they had to say. I'm glad I caught the sparkle and warmth in Johnson's left eye, heard his intelligent comments, witnessed his smile and determination, and engaged with him instantly in our conversation. But all the while, the empty eyelid on the right side of his face reminded me of his sacrifice. I wonder how he and his comrades feel about the political battles dividing our nation right now. At a time when the word “entitlement” has itself been made into a weapon of war, misunderstood and misused, some of his final comments still ring in my ears:
“A lot of
people say that we are an entitlement generation. I think my generation is entitled to some things. We’ve
supported two major conflicts in ten years. Our generation stepped up and said
‘We’ve got this, America!’ So I’m proud of my generation. I’m proud that we
were able to defend our country.” Copyright 2012 Candace J. Brown Good Life Northwest now has its own Facebook page.
On a day that finds me tense with concern for those in the path of Hurricane Sandy, I find some peace in the world of nature, thanks to Orca Network. This important 501 (c) (3) non-profit organization exists to make people aware of these beautiful creatures who are called "killer whales" by some. Rather than being "killers" they form strong, lifelong family bonds, just like humans, or even more so. Both genders of offspring remain with their mothers throughout their lives, unlike any other non-human mammals.
Please take a few minutes to learn more about the orcas of the Salish Sea. They are our neighbors here in the splendor of the Northwest, trying to live their lives in waters we humans have and polluted and depleted of the salmon they require. So who are the "killers" after all?
Here is a video Orca Network's Facebook page shared today, courtesy of videographer Ed Brooks, who filmed these Southern Resident pods called "J" and "K" from a bluff on Magnolia:
Behind every news story, the personal stories full of human emotion and memories wait to be discovered, and I heard and sensed some of those this week. The response to my previous blog post about the fate of the historic Washington State ferry M/V Rhododendron, still coming to me in the form of e-mails, phone calls, and in person, made me decide to share more of my photos of this beloved boat. But as a bonus, I also want to share some vintage postcard images sent to me by Steve Pickens, the man behind the website Evergreen Fleet, mentioned in my original post, and author of "Ferries of Puget Sound." He is helping to preserve our local maritime history, an effort for which we should all be grateful.
Postcard of M/V Rhododendron from the 1950s, courtesy of Steve Pickens
Pickens, a native of western Washington, was born in Seattle and grew up on the Kitsap peninsula. "Ferries have always been a part of my life," he told me in an e-mail. "I got interested in ferries through the Kalakala, first getting into her
history and then branching out from there."
He became involved, conducting tours on Kalakala and serving as a volunteer archivist, for a time. "I had really been previously
interested in the old Atlantic liners, but the interest turned a little more
local after the Kalakala came home," he said.
Vintage postcard of M/V Rhododendron courtesy of Steve Pickens
I asked Pickens how long his site, Evergreen Fleet, has existed and how he came across all his fascinating material.
"The website
has been around over a decade now. A lot of my research
came from books on the subject to a certain point. The final 'what happened to'
a lot of the old retirees involved sending FOIA requests to the Coast Guard or
emailing the last known company/owner of said vessel."
Vintage postcard image courtesy of Steve Pickens
"People have been incredibly
generous sharing their personal memories and photos in many cases.," Pickens said. "There's a
certain fondness for the old boats--particularly the old wooden ferries. I'd
have to say the San Mateo and Vashon are, hands down, the most
fondly remembered."
And now for a few taken from the Tacoma side.
Copyright 2012 by Candace Brown
April evening 2009, off Point Defiance
Copyright 2012 by Candace Brown May not be used without permission.
The following four photos were taken at Point Defiance on a cool, misty morning in the otherwise hot July of 2008. Please see the blog post they relate to: Breath of Life: Marine Air in the Morning.
I've never met Steve Pickens but I can tell that, like so many of us, he loves our rich maritime history and out maritime environment too. Please be sure to look at Evergreen Fleet. You'll be glad you did.
Thank you for joining me on this little two-part tribute to the Washington State Ferry Rhododendron. And many thanks to Steve Pickens for sharing the postcard images of life on Puget Sound.
All text and photos in this post, with the exception of those provided by Steve Pickens, are copyrighted by Candace Brown and cannot be used without permission. See Evergreen Fleet concerning the postcard images.
When I awoke to a downpour this morning, I thought about Monday's remarkable sunshine and the odd way it arrived just in time for an event that was both sad and largely ignored. My husband and I appreciated the meager warmth as we leaned against a railing on the Point Defiance waterfront and watched history being made. We witnessed the 64-year-old ferry Rhododendron making its last run between the Talequah landing on Vashon Island and Point Defiance in Tacoma, before being retired. On a rainy day, it would have felt even more depressing to say goodbye.
View of Chetzemoka from North Tacoma
We had been in Tacoma's Proctor District and headed north from there to go down to the Point Defiance Park because I wanted to take some photos in the sunshine. But as we reached the bluff, we saw how opportune our decision had been. There was the replacement ferry, M/V Chetzemoka, sailing past Maury Island in a spot where no ferry belonged. Until we saw it, we didn't realize the day had come, the day the Rhododendron would sail off forever. We headed straight for a vantage point above the ferry landing. By the time we arrived, the new ferry was pulling in.
The Chetzemoka approaches the ferry landing at Point Defiance
Built at Todd Shipyard in Seattle at the cost of $79.4 million, the Chetzemoka caused all kinds of fanfare when it arrived in Port Townsend to serve the Port Townsend/Coupeville run. That was only a little over a year ago. (You can read about the whole expensive and probably misguided saga in this article from the Port Townsend Leader.) This ferry was meant for Port Townsend and named for a Native American leader from that area. The passenger cabin even features artwork portraying historic Port Townsend. Now we have it here in Tacoma, and they don't.
Maybe I'll get used to the Chetzemoka, but it might take a long time. Right now, it doesn't feel like it belongs here. With a gross tonnage of 4,623 and horsepower of 6,000—compared to the Rhododendron's gross tonnage of 937 and horsepower of 2,172— it will obviously use far, far more fuel for the 1.5 mile, 10-minute trip. How much shorter does a 10-minute trip need to be? And so what if it has a galley? Who has time to buy food and consume it during this short trip? Here is a comparison of the two vessels: M/V Rhododendronand M/V Chetzemoka
The Rhododendron heads for the Point Defiance dock with the Chetzemoka waiting in the background.
After what seemed like some kind of test, the Chetzemoka pulled out, heading toward the passage on Vashon's west side, then made a surprisingly quick maneuver, turning around and positioning itself for another approach to the dock, even as the older boat headed for Point Defiance. At that moment, I felt the sadness of what was happening. It seemed like the 64-year-old Rhododendron, still beautiful—and in the opinion of many, still repairable—was leaving a long marriage against her will. And out there in the water, her much younger replacement watched and waited impatiently, to move in. Here is a video of the Rhododendron's arrival.
Leaning against that railing, surrounded by things I love—the gulls, the smell of the salt water, sounds of boats and waves, the sight of Vashon Island— I thought about change and how many endings life brings. Ships, like people and places, can be taken for granted, there one day and then gone forever. I've seen many ferries come and go and I treasure childhood memories of some of the older ones. Even though the Rhododendron showed up on the Vashon-Point Defiance run many years after my childhood, I've come to know it well. And my husband had worked on this ferry when it was in the dry dock. He loved it. Now it was leaving.
M/V Rhododendron at the Point Defiance ferry landing.
I know my husband and I weren't the only ones who cared. I am sure the officers and crew did, along with the islanders who depended on and loved this vessel. I know that last Sunday a group of folks from Vashon took a farewell ride, described here in the Vashon-Maury Island Beachcomber. But where was the press on Monday? Did the people sitting in Anthony's seaside restaurant pay attention?
It seems that too often people quickly lose interest in the things that are part of our local history and every day lives—and in this case our maritime heritage—just because they are old. Why must we always replace things with something newer and always far more expensive? Old buildings and old ships seem to lose their lustre in some people's eyes. Not mine or my husband's. He had worked doing repairs on the Rhododendron in the past.
So for all of you who will miss this great old ferry as much as we will, no matter how few your numbers, here's a gift. I discovered a wonderful website called "Evergreen Fleet" and on this page, ou can hear the Rhododendron's whistle blow once again, lest you should forget.
Note: Video recorded by Candace Brown. All text and photos in this blog post are the property of Candace Brown and cannot be used without permission. Copyright 2012 Candace J. Brown
Here in Tacoma on what some call "Black Friday," the clouds shared the sky with November sunshine, giving us a nice break from the rain. If you've had enough of shopping, traffic, and rushing to catch some elusive bargain, remember that in the background of our lives nature moves at its own perfect pace, whether or not you notice. But shouldn't you?
Come along for a breath of fresh air and some serenity through today's photo tour of our beloved local treasure: Point Defiance. Even though many readers know this place, those who don't live around here might enjoy the journey. We'll start out at the ferry landing and take a walk along the waterfront, then back up through the woods. (Video included.)
Let's wander over to the boat house, just past Anthony's restaurant. It's a great place to enjoy all the action, especially during salmon season, when proud fishermen return with their catch. You can also watch the ferry on its way to Vashon Island and observe seagulls and other birds up close.
This video is best watched on YouTube. Just click on the YouTube logo.
No James Bond action in this video, but it offers what we too rarely take the time to do, and that is to pause long enough in our busy lives to quietly and patiently observe nature, in this case the behavior of seagulls. If you are reading this far from your Northwest home, here's a chance to watch them again and hear their haunting cries.
A long paved walkway tucked under the hill on the point's northern tip makes a lovely place to wander. Shady in the summer and sometimes downright cold in winter, it can be busy or bare. On this day, I enjoyed the solitude.
Bare tree trunks clustered here offer their own beauty.
This must be some kind of lichen.
We are approaching Owen Beach.
During the summer, Owen beach swarms with people, dogs, and cars. I like it best in the off season.
These old steps lead uphill from the beach to the road above.
Watch out for cars in the summer, but by November you might have the place to yourself.
The canopy of trees changes with the season. Few leaves remain.
Ferns grow on tree trunks in the moist, shady environment of a Northwest forest.
Even the deer feel safe from traffic.
I followed them through the playground and then they disappeard over the fence.
The flower gardens have been put to bed for the winter and signs tells us that new plantings of bulbs hide deep under the mulch and soil, awaiting spring. However, even these plants now gone to seed offer their own beauty and remind us of the way nature's cycles go on without regard for mankind's folly.
As we officially enter the holiday season, I wish you happiness and peace.
