Goodbye, Rhododendron — Historic Washington State Ferry's last day on the run between Vashon Island and Point Defiance (video included)

When I awoke to a downpour this morning, I thought about Monday's remarkable sunshine and the odd way it arrived just in time for an event that was both sad and largely ignored. My husband and I appreciated the meager warmth as we leaned against a railing on the Point Defiance waterfront and watched history being made. We witnessed the 64-year-old ferry Rhododendron making its last run between the Talequah landing on Vashon Island and Point Defiance in Tacoma, before being retired. On a rainy day, it would have felt even more depressing to say goodbye.

View of Chetzemoka from North Tacoma

We had been in Tacoma's Proctor District and headed north from there to go down to the Point Defiance Park because I wanted to take some photos in the sunshine. But as we reached the bluff, we saw how opportune our decision had been. There was the replacement ferry, M/V Chetzemoka, sailing past Maury Island in a spot where no ferry belonged. Until we saw it, we didn't realize the day had come, the day the Rhododendron would sail off forever. We headed straight for a vantage point above the ferry landing. By the time we arrived, the new ferry was pulling in.

The Chetzemoka approaches the ferry landing at Point Defiance

Built at Todd Shipyard in Seattle at the cost of  $79.4 million, the Chetzemoka caused all kinds of fanfare when it arrived in Port Townsend to serve the Port Townsend/Coupeville run. That was only a little over a year ago. (You can read about the whole expensive and probably misguided saga in this article from the Port Townsend Leader.) This ferry was meant for Port Townsend and named for a Native American leader from that area. The passenger cabin even features artwork portraying historic Port Townsend. Now we have it here in Tacoma, and they don't.



Maybe I'll get used to the Chetzemoka, but it might take a long time. Right now, it doesn't feel like it belongs here. With a gross tonnage of 4,623 and horsepower of 6,000—compared to the Rhododendron's gross tonnage of 937 and horsepower of 2,172— it will obviously use far, far more fuel for the 1.5 mile, 10-minute trip. How much shorter does a 10-minute trip need to be? And so what if it has a galley? Who has time to buy food and consume it during this short trip? Here is a comparison of the two vessels: M/V Rhododendron and M/V Chetzemoka

The Rhododendron heads for the Point Defiance dock with the Chetzemoka waiting in the background.

After what seemed like some kind of test, the Chetzemoka pulled out, heading toward the passage on Vashon's west side, then made a surprisingly quick maneuver, turning around and positioning itself for another approach to the dock, even as the older boat headed for Point Defiance. At that moment, I felt the sadness of what was happening. It seemed like the 64-year-old Rhododendron, still beautiful—and in the opinion of many, still repairable—was leaving a long marriage against her will. And out there in the water, her much younger replacement watched and waited impatiently, to move in.  Here is a video of the Rhododendron's arrival.

Leaning against that railing, surrounded by things I love—the gulls, the smell of the salt water, sounds of boats and waves, the sight of Vashon Island— I thought about change and how many endings life brings. Ships, like people and places, can be taken for granted, there one day and then gone forever. I've seen many ferries come and go and I treasure childhood memories of some of the older ones. Even though the Rhododendron showed up on the Vashon-Point Defiance run many years after  my childhood, I've come to know it well. And my husband had worked on this ferry when it was in the dry dock. He loved it. Now it was leaving.     

M/V Rhododendron at the Point Defiance ferry landing.

I know my husband and I weren't the only ones who cared. I am sure the officers and crew did, along with the islanders who depended on and loved this vessel. I know that last Sunday a group of folks from Vashon took a farewell ride, described here in the Vashon-Maury Island Beachcomber. But where was the press on Monday? Did the people sitting in Anthony's seaside restaurant pay attention? 

It seems that too often people quickly lose interest in the things that are part of our local history and every day lives—and in this case our maritime heritage—just because they are old. Why must we always replace things with something newer and always far more expensive? Old buildings and old ships seem to lose their lustre in some people's eyes. Not mine or my husband's. He had worked doing repairs on the Rhododendron in the past.

So for all of you who will miss this great old ferry as much as we will, no matter how few your numbers, here's a gift. I discovered a wonderful website called "Evergreen Fleet" and on this page, ou can hear the Rhododendron's whistle blow once again, lest you should forget.

Note: Video recorded by Candace Brown. All text and photos in this blog post are the property of Candace Brown and cannot be used without permission. Copyright 2012 Candace J. Brown

A Tale of Stout Hearts and Strong Hands: 1922 schooner MERRIE ELLEN visits Tacoma

If ships believe in reincarnation, the old schooner RFM must have had a lot of good karma to end up as the MERRIE ELLEN in its new life. My husband first spotted the two masts in the glow of Saturday's early evening. We were driving south on Schuster Parkway, past Tacoma's Working Waterfront Museum, so only got a quick glance at the unfamiliar schooner and wondered about it during dinner at a restaurant. On our way home we decided to stop by.

The museum's doors stood open as we pulled into the parking lot, but it seemed surprising that no one crowded around the elegant MERRIE ELLEN moored nearby. Out on the pier, a couple of families with numerous, lively children, took more interest in the crabs they hauled up and dropped into plastic buckets. No one seemed to pay much attention to this noteworthy visitor on Tacoma's waterfront. The word hadn't gotten out yet.

Our footsteps echoed down the metal ramp as we walked over to where the schooner floated on calm water. On deck, a black and white dog picked up a rope toy and ran over to see if we wanted to play, just as Captain John Holbert noticed us and came over to the ladder to say hello. After a few words with him, we knew we wanted to come aboard and tour the boat, for a mere $5.00 each. It was the best value I've ever had from a five spot. Don't miss this brief opportunity to visit, before the MERRIE ELLEN leaves Tacoma about noon on Thursday, July 16, for the Waterland Festival in the city of Des Moines, Washington. Or go on a three hour sail for $50.00. You won't be able to do either when the ship is on view in Des Moines.


John and Jill Holbert, dreamed of buying and restoring a vintage schooner. When they found what would become the MERRIE ELLEN in 2007, in Victoria, B.C. they recognized it as "the one," but probably never imagined how much work awaited them. Accustomed to their 62' fiberglass ketch, just climbing aboard the 107' ship, with a 20' beam and a weight of 320,000 lbs., gave a new and literal meaning to the term "big project." Originally called simply "RFM" the ship had been built in Vancouver B.C. in 1922. She showed her age, inside and out.

"I tapped the hull on that first day," says John in his ship's log, "and it sounded odd, so I pushed the point of my knife against the hull and it sank in with no effort."

As it turned out, a large percentage of the planking and 42 frames had rotted. He hired expert ship surveyor Lee Earhart to examine the hull. Earhart declared it worth restoring, but the estimate for those expenses alone came to six figures. The work seemed endless. It included searching the forest for a Douglas fir long and straight enough for a mast, redoing the mechanical systems, hand forging ships spikes, acquiring specialty woods like Western Larch, Alaskan yellow cedar, and Brazilian Purple Heart, caulking and finishing work, and so much more. It's been a long adventure marked by both discouragement and elation. The Holberts estimate that during five months in 2008, 10,000 man-hours went into the ship's restoration, often during cold, windy, and rainy weather. Friends donated half of those man-hours. The Holberts' gratitude to these folks and the marine trades experts in the Port Townsend area can hardly be expressed, but they themselves worked as hard as anyone, on all kinds of tasks. Among other things, John designed and fabricated new halyard winches to look like vintage ones that would have been made of cast iron, and did exquisitely beautiful woodwork in the interior. Jill shared her talents and efforts in as many ways.

The work continues. If you visit the MERRIE ELLEN in Tacoma this week, you can see enough exposed below decks to appreciate the amount of work represented. At the same time what is finished will take your breath away. A modern cooking surface in the gourmet galley lifts to become part of a tiled wall, revealing the ship's original Lunenburg wood cook stove beneath. Charming light fixtures lend a glow to the Alaskan yellow cedar cabin walls, doors close with a perfect fit, and one table surface is built with an inlaid wood game board. There's even an all-wood shower stall that will be epoxied to make it completely waterproof.

Life aboard this schooner, when it is ready to work as a charter, will offer many comforts and much beauty. Jill came up with the idea of free form sinks of laminated wood in the heads, of which there are several, including a private one for each of the three guest staterooms. Each stateroom will hold a queen-sized bed and receive part of its illumination from from deck prisms installed above. In fact, the schooner's abundance of natural daylight in most areas made it exceptional.

Please visit the ship's website to see many photos of the restoration, read about charter trip costs, amenities, and more. John Holbert can be reached at mobile number 541-740-0053, or email him at john_holbert55@yahoo.com.

I'm glad my husband spotted those two masts as we drove by. We feel lucky to have met the Holberts and their crew, and to have a chance to see an amazing restoration project. Maybe one of these days soon, when their charter business is underway, we'll even take a trip on the schooner. You can too. But we'd all better get in line.


















A proud family models the MERRIE ELLEN merchandise.

Northwest artisan's famous fish stew

Last night in Tacoma I stood outside in the raw January wind and thought of Carrie's fish stew. My friend Carrie Rice lives in scenic Port Townsend, where she and her husband Rex enjoy a life filled with friends, interests, worthwhile causes, good books and films, his music and her business. Rex plays trombone and she runs Carrie's Caning, repairing or replacing hand-caned seats and backs on antique chairs. But if Carrie had a kitchen down by the docks she could get rich selling bowl and after bowl of fish stew.

My idea of what soup could be changed forever the first time my husband and I experienced it. Chunks of firm white cod, onions, peppers, navy beans, Kalamata olives, plus both diced and sun-dried tomatoes conspired to tempt us from within a rich tomato/clam juice/red wine broth, fragrant with garlic and herbs. Waiting for the steaming bowlfuls to cool seemed like torture, only partially relieved by a fresh loaf of crusty bread, a bottle of Rex's homemade wine and the good company of old friends. Nothing could better represent true Northwest hospitality.

Carrie doesn't remember where she first got the basic recipe, long ago, but by now she's made it her own, changing it here and there according to what she has on hand, what herbs are available in her garden, and seasonal prices. Any vegetables or herbs she doesn't grow herself she buys in bulk at Port Townsend's Food Co-op. Instead of canned Carrie uses her home grown tomatoes, fresh or chopped and frozen, and soaked dried beans which are pre-cooked before adding. Our first taste had Fava beans. She varies the herbs, using fresh basil when possible, dried if she has it, or whatever is out in the yard. If you decide to make this soup, you can do as you please, which is the best method for making soup anyway. Rex and Carrie believe that with things like improvised jazz solos, antiques you repair yourself, or a pot of soup on the stove, no matter how wonderful the end result may be, the artistry and joy start in the process. So when the cold wind blows may your only tears be those you get from chopping onions and may you find warmth and welcome at home with a pot of fish stew.



CARRIE'S NORTHWEST FISH STEW

1/2 cup of sun-dried tomatoes
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large red, yellow, or green bell pepper, chopped
2 8-oz. bottles of clam juice or the equivalent made from "Better than Bouillon" brand Clam Base
2 14-oz. cans of salt free diced tomatoes, or equivalent fresh or frozen
1 cup dry red wine or tomato juice
4 large or 5 small cloves of garlic, crushed
1/4 cup combination of fresh herbs like basil, thyme or rosemary (go easy on the rosemary) or a lesser amount of dried
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, sliced
1 or 2 15-oz cans of navy beans, drained and rinsed, or equivalent cooked beans
About 1 lb. firm fish like cod, cut into chunks 2" in size
2 Tablespoons fennel seeds, lightly crushed
salt and pepper to taste
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
a few hungry friends

Put the sun-dried tomatoes and about 1 3/4 cups water in a saucepan and simmer until the tomatoes are very soft. Drain and discard the water.

Using a large soup pot, saute' onion and pepper in olive oil until softened.
Process the sun-dried tomatoes and 1 bottle of clam juice in a food processor or blender until smooth and add to the pot. Add remaining clam juice, diced tomatoes, herbs, garlic, bay leaves, olives and wine, and stir to combine. Simmer for 20 minutes.

Stir in beans, fish, and fennel seeds. Simmer until fish is cooked, about 10 minutes. Remove bay leaves and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Ladle it into bowls (serves about 8) and sprinkle the cheese on top of each serving.
The good friends will already be at the table eating your bread and drinking your wine, so just pass out the bowls and enjoy!

By the way, if you have an antique chair that needs caning you can reach Carrie at carrierice@olypen.com.